Why Honeymoon in Kandy
Kandy offers a cultural experience that most beach destinations cannot. Watching the evening ritual at the Temple of the Tooth, with drummers, incense and pilgrims filing past the shrine, is one of the most moving moments in Sri Lanka.
The setting is green and hilly. The city wraps around a lake created by the last king, with forest reserves rising behind it. The Royal Botanic Gardens at Peradeniya, just outside town, are among the finest in Asia, with an orchid house, giant bamboo and an avenue of royal palms.
It is also a practical stop. Kandy breaks up the long drives between the Cultural Triangle and the hill country. It is the starting point for many travelers taking the scenic train toward Nanu Oya and Ella. It also has some lovely boutique hotels and Ayurvedic retreats in the hills.
When to Go
Kandy is pleasant for much of the year, with daytime temperatures in the 70s and low 80s Fahrenheit thanks to its elevation of about 1,600 feet. January to April is generally the driest and most comfortable period.
From May to September, the southwest monsoon brings showers, though Kandy usually gets less rain than the west coast. October and November are typically the wettest months, with heavy afternoon storms.
The Esala Perahera, Kandy's great festival, takes place over about ten nights in July or August, depending on the lunar calendar. Processions of costumed elephants, dancers and drummers parade through the streets. It is spectacular and very crowded. Hotels book out months ahead and prices rise sharply, so plan early if you want to see it.
Where to Stay
Most couples prefer to stay in the hills around Kandy rather than in the center. The Kandy House, a restored manor house in the village of Gunnepana, has a small number of rooms, gardens and an infinity pool overlooking paddy fields. Amaya Hills sits high on a ridge with views over the hills. Earl's Regency overlooks the Mahaweli River on the edge of town.
Cinnamon Citadel Kandy, set along the Mahaweli, is a reliable full-service choice a short drive from the temple.
For wellness, Santani Wellness Resort & Spa is a design-led retreat in the hills, about an hour or so from Kandy, focused on yoga, spa therapies and healthy food. It works well for couples who want a few days of rest in the middle of a busy itinerary.
Romantic Things to Do
Attend an evening puja at the Temple of the Tooth. The ceremonies take place at dawn, midday and in the early evening, when drums sound and the doors of the inner chamber open. Dress in white or light colors if you can.
Walk around Kandy Lake at dusk as bats fly over the water and lights reflect off the surface. Spend a morning at the Royal Botanic Gardens in Peradeniya with its orchid house, spice garden and giant Javan fig.
Visit the three temples west of the city, Gadaladeniya, Lankatilaka and Embekke, known for their carved wooden pillars. Watch a performance of Kandyan dance, with fire walking and drumming.
Book seats on the hill country train toward Nanu Oya or Ella for views of tea estates, waterfalls and misty valleys.
Getting There and Around
There are no nonstop flights from the US to Sri Lanka. Most couples connect through Doha, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Istanbul or Singapore to Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB). From there, Kandy is about three to three and a half hours by car.
Most couples hire a car with a driver for their Sri Lanka trip, which is affordable and makes the winding roads easier. From Sigiriya, the drive to Kandy takes about two and a half to three hours, often with a stop at Dambulla.
Trains run from Colombo to Kandy in about two and a half to three hours. The famous hill country line from Kandy to Nanu Oya and Ella takes several hours and reserved seats sell out quickly, so book as early as you can. In town, use tuk-tuks or the PickMe and Uber apps.
Food and Drink
Rice and curry is the daily staple: a mound of rice with several small curries of dhal, vegetables, fish or chicken, along with sambol and papadum. Hotels and local restaurants serve excellent versions at lunch.
Try hoppers, bowl-shaped crisp rice flour pancakes, often with an egg cooked into the center, served with spicy sambol. Kottu roti, chopped flatbread stir-fried with vegetables and meat on a hot griddle, is a classic evening dish.
Kandy is close to the tea country. Tour a tea museum or estate to see how leaves are rolled and dried, then taste fresh Ceylon tea. Alcohol is not served on Poya days, the monthly full moon holidays, at many places. Hotels may still serve guests, though the rules vary.
Honeymoon Tips
Dress respectfully for the Temple of the Tooth. Both partners must cover shoulders and knees. Shoes and hats come off at the entrance. Avoid posing with their backs to Buddha statues for photographs. White clothing is customary.
Traffic in central Kandy can be very slow, especially at school times. Allow extra time and stay outside the center for calm.
The US State Department rates Sri Lanka Level 2, Exercise Increased Caution. Kandy is generally relaxed, but avoid demonstrations and follow local news.
Mosquitoes are active at dusk around the lake and gardens. Dengue occurs in Sri Lanka, so use repellent. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices.
Two nights is ideal, with one full day for the temple, lake and gardens.
