Why Honeymoon in Puerto Viejo
Puerto Viejo suits couples who want personality over polish. Mornings start with a bike ride along the coast road. Afternoons bring swimming in a jungle-fringed cove or a guided walk through a wildlife refuge. Evenings turn into dinner with live music and a rum cocktail.
It offers more variety than you might expect. Surfers can watch or ride Salsa Brava, a powerful reef break right in town. Snorkelers can explore the reef at Cahuita. Nature lovers have the Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge, where trails lead to secluded beaches. Chocolate lovers can tour cacao farms where Bribri families grow and process beans.
It is casual and relatively affordable compared with the Pacific luxury resorts, with boutique hotels and jungle bungalows instead of big chains.
When to Go
The Caribbean coast gets rain year-round, but the pattern differs from the rest of Costa Rica. September and October are often the driest months here, which makes this coast a smart choice when the Pacific side is soggy. February through April can also be relatively dry and sunny.
July tends to be wetter, as do November through January, when heavy rains can cause flooding on rare occasions.
Temperatures are warm all year, with highs in the 80s Fahrenheit and plenty of humidity. Sea conditions vary. Calmer, clearer water for snorkeling usually comes in the drier months. Holiday weeks around Christmas and Easter are busiest, so book early if your honeymoon falls then.
Where to Stay
The town of Puerto Viejo has budget lodgings, bars and nightlife, which can be noisy. Most couples prefer to stay along the coast road to the south.
Playa Cocles, just south of town, is close to restaurants and has a lively beach scene. Le Caméléon Boutique Hotel sits across from the beach here, with a stylish white design and a beach club.
Playa Chiquita and Punta Uva are quieter, with jungle lodges, bungalows and small boutique hotels among the trees. Punta Uva has one of the calmest swimming beaches on the coast.
Near Manzanillo, at the end of the road, cabins and eco-lodges sit at the edge of the wildlife refuge. Choose a place with air conditioning or good fans, since humidity is high. Ask about mosquito nets.
Romantic Things to Do
- Swim and snorkel in the calm cove at Punta Uva.
- Walk the trails of the Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge to secluded beaches and lookouts.
- Snorkel the coral reef in Cahuita National Park with a certified guide.
- Rent beach cruiser bikes and pedal the coast road between Cocles and Manzanillo.
- Take a chocolate tour on a small cacao farm and make your own bar.
- Visit the Jaguar Rescue Center, which cares for injured and orphaned wildlife.
- Spend a day with a Bribri community, learning about traditional plants and culture.
- Catch live reggae or calypso music in town after dinner.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO) in San José. From there, the drive to Puerto Viejo takes about four to five hours, crossing Braulio Carrillo National Park and following the coast south past Limón. Private shuttles and shared vans run daily. Public buses go from San José.
The small Limón airport is about an hour north, with limited domestic flights.
Once here, bicycles are the favorite way to get around. Many hotels lend or rent them. Taxis are useful at night and for longer hops. A car helps for day trips to Cahuita or remote beaches, though parking can be limited and break-ins happen at beach lots. Many couples combine Puerto Viejo with Tortuguero or Arenal.
Food and Drink
Caribbean flavors set this coast apart. The classic dish is rice and beans cooked in coconut milk, served with chicken, fish or beef in a spicy Caribbean sauce. Rondón, a seafood and coconut stew, is a local favorite, as is patí, a flaky pastry stuffed with spiced beef.
Puerto Viejo also has a lively international food scene, with Italian, Thai, vegetarian and seafood restaurants run by long-time residents from around the world.
Try fresh coconut water from roadside stands, local chocolate and fruit smoothies. Evenings often mean a cocktail at a beachside bar or a dinner with live music. Many restaurants close one day a week, so check before heading out.
Honeymoon Tips
Swim carefully. Playa Cocles in particular has strong rip currents. Lifeguards are not always present. Punta Uva and parts of Manzanillo are usually calmer.
Petty theft can be a problem. Don't leave valuables on the beach or in cars. Lock bikes and avoid walking dark beach roads late at night; take a taxi instead.
Mosquitoes are common. Dengue and other mosquito-borne illnesses occur here. Use repellent and cover up at dusk. If you're pregnant or hoping to be soon, check CDC travel health notices.
Pack light, breathable clothing, rain jackets and reef-safe sunscreen. Bring cash for small businesses, though many accept cards. Plan four or five nights to settle into the slow Caribbean rhythm.
