Why Honeymoon in Bologna
Food is the obvious reason. Bologna's restaurants, osterie and market stalls set a standard that many Italians themselves admire. A day here might mean a pastry and cappuccino under the arcades, a pasta class at midday, a plate of mortadella and Lambrusco at aperitivo and a dinner of tortellini in brodo.
The porticoes make the city lovely to wander in any weather, sheltering dozens of kilometers of streets from sun and rain. Medieval towers rise above red rooftops. Piazza Maggiore fills each evening with students, families and couples.
It is also a smart base. Florence, Venice, Ravenna's Byzantine mosaics and the food towns of Modena and Parma are all within easy reach by train, so you can mix city time, art and countryside without changing hotels every night.
When to Go
April, May, September and October are the best months: mild weather, lively streets and seasonal produce in the markets. Autumn also brings truffles, mushrooms and new wine to menus across the region.
June is warm and pleasant, while July and August are hot and humid. In August many locals leave. A good number of family restaurants and shops close for holidays, especially around mid-August.
Winter is cold and often foggy but has its rewards. Tortellini in brodo is at its best, the Christmas markets brighten the arcades and hotel prices drop. Couples who love food more than sunshine can have a cozy, crowd-free visit.
Where to Stay
Stay inside the historic center so you can walk everywhere. The streets around Piazza Maggiore and the Quadrilatero market district put you close to the main sights and restaurants. Via Santo Stefano and its piazza are quieter and very attractive, with elegant palazzi.
The Grand Hotel Majestic "già Baglioni", in an eighteenth-century palace on Via dell'Indipendenza, is the city's classic luxury address. Bologna also has a growing number of boutique hotels and design-led apartments in restored buildings, often with beamed ceilings and frescoes.
If you plan to take many day trips by train, a hotel within a short walk of Bologna Centrale station is practical. Ask for a quiet room facing an inner courtyard, since the center stays lively late.
Romantic Things to Do
Walk the Portico di San Luca, the world's longest continuous arcade at nearly four kilometers, from the city up to the hilltop Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca. The climb is steady. The views over the city and countryside at the top are a good reward.
Book a pasta-making class and learn to roll sfoglia and fold tortellini together. Climb to the terrace of the Basilica of San Petronio for rooftop views over Piazza Maggiore.
Visit the Archiginnasio, the university's historic seat, to see its wooden anatomical theater. Take a day trip to Modena to taste traditional balsamic vinegar in an attic acetaia and visit the cathedral, or to Parma for Parmigiano Reggiano dairies and prosciutto producers.
Getting There and Around
Bologna's airport (BLQ) has connections through major European hubs; regular nonstops from the US have not been offered. Many couples fly into Milan (MXP), Rome (FCO) or Venice (VCE) on nonstops from the US and take a high-speed train. From BLQ, the Marconi Express monorail runs to Bologna Centrale in about seven minutes.
The historic center is compact and best explored on foot. Buses cover longer distances. Taxis are available at stands. Avoid driving into the center, which has a limited-traffic zone with automatic fines.
For day trips, regional trains reach Modena in about 25 minutes and Parma in under an hour. High-speed Frecciarossa and Italo trains link Bologna with Florence, Milan, Venice and Rome.
Food and Drink
The essential dishes: tagliatelle al ragù (do not ask for spaghetti bolognese), tortellini in brodo, tortelloni with ricotta and butter, lasagne verdi and slices of mortadella. Crescentine, little fried breads served with cured meats and soft cheeses, are made for sharing.
The Quadrilatero, a maze of medieval lanes off Piazza Maggiore, is lined with delis, fishmongers and wine bars. Mercato delle Erbe is a covered market with stalls and casual eateries.
Drink sparkling red Lambrusco, Pignoletto from the Bologna hills or Sangiovese di Romagna. For a splurge, Modena's Osteria Francescana, run by chef Massimo Bottura, is famous worldwide; reservations open well in advance and are hard to secure.
Honeymoon Tips
- Book pasta classes and popular restaurants a few days ahead, especially on weekends.
- Wear comfortable shoes for the San Luca walk; there are hundreds of steps.
- Access to the Two Towers has been restricted during safety work, so check the current status before you plan a climb.
- Many restaurants close one day a week and for part of August.
- Lunch is often the best value; many trattorias offer set menus.
- Bologna is generally safe, but watch for pickpockets around the station and busy piazzas.
- Combine Bologna with Florence, Venice or the Dolomites for a rich northern Italy trip.
