Why Honeymoon in Normandy
Normandy offers a lot of variety for a short drive from Paris. Étretat's white cliffs and natural arches look like a painting because Monet painted them often. Honfleur's old harbor, lined with tall slate-fronted houses, is a place to linger over dinner.
Then there is Mont-Saint-Michel, an abbey village on a rock in a bay with one of the largest tidal ranges in Europe. Staying overnight on the island, after the day crowds leave, is one of the best experiences in France.
For many American couples, the D-Day beaches and the American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer add real meaning to the trip. It is a moving half-day that balances the long lunches and coastal walks.
When to Go
May and June bring apple blossom, long evenings and gardens at their best, including Monet's at Giverny, which opens from spring to fall. July and August are the warmest months, with crowds at Étretat and Mont-Saint-Michel. Beach swimming is bracing even then.
Early June is busy around the landing beaches for the D-Day anniversary, with ceremonies and many visitors. It is moving if you plan for it, but hotels book out.
September is a strong choice: mild, quieter and the start of the apple harvest. From November to March days are short, some hotels close and the sea mist rolls in, though Mont-Saint-Michel in winter has a quiet beauty.
Where to Stay
Honfleur makes a pleasant base for the eastern coast, with Étretat about 45 minutes away across the Pont de Normandie. La Ferme Saint-Siméon, a historic inn just outside Honfleur once frequented by painters, has a spa and gardens. In Étretat itself, the Domaine Saint-Clair Le Donjon sits in a small castle above the town.
Deauville and Trouville offer seaside glamour, a casino and a boardwalk, with grand hotels near the beach.
At Mont-Saint-Michel, book one night on the island in one of its small hotels, or stay on the mainland near the shuttle stop. Rooms on the rock are simple and old-fashioned. You stay for the evening atmosphere, not the décor.
Romantic Things to Do
Walk the cliff path at Étretat to the Porte d'Aval arch and the Aiguille needle rock, ideally late in the afternoon when the light turns gold. The path is steep in places and the cliff edges are unfenced, so stay well back.
At Mont-Saint-Michel, explore the abbey, then wander the ramparts at night when the lanes empty. A guided walk across the bay sands at low tide is memorable, but only go with a licensed guide since quicksand and fast tides make it dangerous alone.
Visit Monet's house and gardens at Giverny, an hour from Paris, early in the morning. Then drive the Route du Cidre in the Pays d'Auge, tasting cider at farms with half-timbered barns.
Getting There and Around
Fly nonstop to Paris CDG, which has the widest choice of US flights in France. From there it is about 2.5 hours by car to Honfleur, or take a train from Paris Saint-Lazare to Caen in about two hours and rent a car there.
Mont-Saint-Michel is about 4 hours from Paris by car. Trains run to Pontorson or Rennes with a bus to the mount.
At Mont-Saint-Michel, park in the mainland lots about 2.5 km away and take the free shuttle across the bridge, or walk the causeway in about 40 minutes.
A rental car is the practical choice for a honeymoon here. Roads are good and distances short, but the countryside villages are poorly served by public transport.
Food and Drink
Normandy is the land of butter, cream and apples. Camembert, Pont-l'Évêque and Livarot cheeses all come from here. Many farms sell directly.
Seafood is outstanding. Try moules à la crème, Saint-Vaast oysters and scallops in season from fall to spring.
Apples go into cider, both sparkling and dry, plus pommeau, a sweet aperitif. Calvados, apple brandy aged in oak, is served between courses as the trou normand to make room for more food.
At Mont-Saint-Michel, La Mère Poulard is known for its fluffy omelets beaten in copper bowls. It is touristy and pricey, but some couples enjoy it as part of the experience. Tarte normande, an apple tart with custard, is the classic dessert.
Honeymoon Tips
Check tide tables before visiting Mont-Saint-Michel. The highest spring tides, when water surrounds the mount completely, are a spectacle worth timing your stay around.
At the D-Day sites, a guided tour adds a great deal. Guides explain the landings and the stories of individual soldiers in ways signs cannot. Dress respectfully at the American Cemetery.
Layers and a waterproof jacket are essential year-round. Sea breezes are cool even in July.
Book Giverny tickets online to skip the line. Monet's garden is closed in winter, so check the opening season before planning.
Restaurants in small towns often stop serving lunch by 2 pm and dinner by 9:30 pm. Reserve in Honfleur and Étretat on weekends.
