Why Honeymoon in the Loire Valley
Few places let you sleep in a castle, cycle to another one for lunch and finish the day with a glass of Vouvray on a terrace above the river. The Loire combines history, wine and gentle outdoor time without demanding much effort.
The châteaux are the obvious draw. Chenonceau spans the Cher River on a row of stone arches; Chambord is enormous, with a rooftop of chimneys and turrets that looks like a small city. Villandry is famous for its geometric kitchen gardens. Leonardo da Vinci spent his last years at the Clos Lucé in Amboise.
The pace is slow, which suits newlyweds coming off a wedding and a long flight. Evenings are quiet. The region is also good value compared with Paris or the Riviera, with lovely inns and serious food at fair prices.
When to Go
Late April through June is a lovely window, when gardens are in bloom and days are long. September and early October bring the grape harvest, golden light on the vineyards and fewer visitors.
July and August are warm and busy at the big châteaux, especially Chenonceau and Chambord, where lines build by late morning. Arrive at opening or late in the afternoon. Summer evenings are a highlight, though, since sunset comes late and dinners on terraces stretch past 10 p.m.
The Chaumont-sur-Loire garden festival runs from spring into autumn and is worth timing a visit around if you love landscape design.
From November to March, the valley is misty and quiet. The main châteaux stay open with shorter hours. Christmas decorations at Chenonceau and Amboise are pretty, but many smaller hotels and bike rental shops close.
Where to Stay
Amboise makes the most convenient base, with a château overlooking the river, good restaurants and easy access to Chenonceau and Clos Lucé. Tours is a lively student city with excellent train links if you prefer city evenings.
For a romantic splurge, consider:
- Les Sources de Cheverny, a château and vineyard estate with a spa and wooden lodges near the Château de Cheverny.
- Domaine des Hauts de Loire near Onzain, a former hunting lodge in a large park.
- Fleur de Loire in Blois, a riverside hotel from chef Christophe Hay, known for its restaurant.
- Château de la Bourdaisière near Montlouis, where you can sleep in a castle with a famous tomato garden.
Smaller château guesthouses, called chambres d'hôtes, offer the same setting at lower prices, often with a family dinner served in a grand dining room.
Romantic Things to Do
Visit Chenonceau early in the morning, before tour buses arrive. Walk the long gallery that spans the river. Rent a rowboat in summer for a view of the château from the water.
At Chambord, climb the famous double spiral staircase, where two people can go up and down without ever crossing paths. Then rent bikes or a golf cart to explore the walled forest park.
Take a hot-air balloon flight at dawn or dusk. Several operators near Amboise and Chenonceaux fly over the river and châteaux in the warm months.
Ride part of the Loire à Vélo route. The stretch between Amboise and Tours, or between Blois and Chambord, is flat and scenic. E-bikes make it easy.
In Vouvray and Montlouis, wineries age their chenin blanc in cellars cut into tufa cliffs. Some have restaurants and tasting rooms carved into the rock.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Paris. From Montparnasse station, TGV trains reach Saint-Pierre-des-Corps, the station serving Tours, in roughly an hour; connecting regional trains continue to Amboise and Blois. Driving from Charles de Gaulle takes about two and a half to three hours.
A rental car is the most flexible way to see several châteaux in a day. Roads are quiet and parking is easy at most sites. Pick up a car in Tours or Amboise to avoid driving out of Paris.
If you don't want to drive, combine trains with bikes and taxis, or book a private driver for a day of château visits. Some hotels arrange bike rentals with luggage transfer, so you can cycle from inn to inn.
Plan two châteaux a day at most. Seeing more than that blurs them together.
Food and Drink
The valley is called the garden of France for a reason. Expect asparagus in spring, river fish such as pike perch with beurre blanc, goat cheeses like Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine and the rich pork spread called rillettes de Tours. Tarte Tatin, the upside-down apple tart, comes from the Sologne just south of the river.
Wines change as you travel along the river. Near Tours, Vouvray and Montlouis make chenin blanc in styles from bone dry to sweet and sparkling. Chinon and Bourgueil produce light cabernet franc reds. Upriver, Sancerre is known for sauvignon blanc.
Several Michelin-starred restaurants are in or near château hotels, but village bistros serve excellent prix fixe lunches. Picnics are a joy here: pick up cheese, bread and a bottle at a market, then find a bench by the river.
Honeymoon Tips
Book timed tickets for Chenonceau and Chambord in summer. Arriving at opening makes a big difference.
Don't try to see a dozen châteaux. Pick three or four that appeal most and mix in wineries, gardens and riverside walks.
Rent e-bikes for at least one day. The route is flat, but distances add up and the bikes keep the day relaxed.
Many restaurants close on Sunday evenings and Mondays. Reserve those nights at your hotel's restaurant.
If you're staying in a château hotel, ask for a room in the main building rather than an annex. That's where the character is.
Pack a light jacket even in summer. Evenings by the river can turn cool.
