Why Honeymoon in Les Saintes
Terre-de-Haut is small enough to learn in a day and pretty enough that you will not tire of it in five. There are no high-rise hotels and no traffic jams, just a village, a handful of beaches and hills crowned by old forts. You get around by scooter or electric cart and stop wherever the view demands it.
The island has the feel of a French seaside village dropped into the tropics. Boulangeries open early, cafes spill onto the street and the evening routine is an aperitif by the water. The pace suits a honeymoon perfectly once the day boats leave. Couples who want big resort amenities may find it too simple. Those who like walking to dinner, swimming before breakfast and talking with the same baker every morning tend to fall hard for the place.
When to Go
Les Saintes follows Guadeloupe's dry season, from roughly December to May, with the most sunshine and steady breezes. It is a dry island to begin with, so even outside peak months it often sees less rain than Basse-Terre across the channel. February through April is ideal.
Weekends and French school holidays bring more visitors from the main island, so book rooms and ferries early for those dates. Mid-August is especially busy around the island's patron saint festival. From late August through October, hurricane season peaks, ferries can be cancelled in rough seas and some guesthouses close for a break. May, June and early December are good shoulder months, with warm water, fewer people and lower prices. Whatever the season, plan your beach time for mornings and late afternoons, when the light is softer and the day-trippers are gone.
Where to Stay
Most lodging is in or near the village of Terre-de-Haut, within walking distance of restaurants and the ferry pier. Small hotels, guesthouses and rooms in village homes are the norm. Many have balconies or terraces overlooking the bay, which is worth paying extra for.
On the hills above the village, look for small boutique hotels and rental villas with pools and wide views over the islets. These are quieter at night but need a scooter or cart to reach the beaches.
Terre-de-Bas has only a few simple rentals and is best for a day trip. Book well ahead for weekends and holidays, as the island has limited rooms.
Romantic Things to Do
Rent a scooter or electric cart and spend a day circling the island. Start at Fort Napoléon, a 19th-century fortress with a museum and a garden where iguanas sun themselves on the walls, then continue to Pompierre beach, a sheltered curve of sand ideal for swimming.
Hike to the top of Le Chameau, the island's highest point at about 1,000 feet, where an 18th-century watchtower overlooks the bay and the whole archipelago. Go early or late in the day to avoid the heat.
Snorkel around the Pain de Sucre, a small basalt peninsula with columns of volcanic rock and clear water. Take a boat to Terre-de-Bas to see the fishing villages and the craftsmen who weave the salako, a conical bamboo hat. At sunset, find a waterfront bar in the village and watch the light fade over the anchored boats.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Pointe-à-Pitre (PTP). Air France has nonstops from Miami year-round, with American adding seasonal flights. The quickest way to Les Saintes is to drive about an hour to Trois-Rivières on the south coast of Basse-Terre and take the 15 to 20 minute ferry. Ferries also leave from Pointe-à-Pitre, a longer crossing of about an hour or more. Book tickets in advance on weekends.
The island has a small airstrip, but most visitors arrive by sea. Once there, you will not need a car. Walk the village, then rent a scooter, electric bike or electric cart for the hills. Roads are steep and narrow, so drive carefully. Water taxis link Terre-de-Haut with Terre-de-Bas and nearby islets. If you leave a rental car at Trois-Rivières, expect a small parking fee.
Food and Drink
Fish and seafood dominate the menus. Look for grilled fish of the day, lobster, octopus and tuna tartare, often served with rice, red beans and a spicy sauce chien. Creole classics like colombo and accras share menus with French bistro dishes and crêpes, a nod to the island's Breton roots.
The local specialty is the tourment d'amour, a small tart of shortcrust pastry with coconut jam and a light sponge top. Women sell them near the pier and in the village; buy one warm in the morning and save another for your hike.
Dinner is best on a terrace by the water. Many restaurants are small, with limited seating, so reserve for the evening, especially on weekends. Finish with a ti-punch or a glass of aged rum from Guadeloupe or nearby Marie-Galante. Some places close on certain weekdays, so check before you set out.
Honeymoon Tips
Stay at least two nights, preferably three or four. A day trip shows you the village at its busiest, while an overnight stay reveals the calm mornings and evenings that make the island special.
Carry cash. Some restaurants, scooter rentals and small shops prefer it. There are only a few cash machines on the island.
Wear sunscreen and a hat on hikes. Shade is limited on the trails up to Le Chameau and Fort Napoléon. The climb is steeper than it looks. Bring snorkeling gear or rent it in the village.
Ferries can be cancelled in rough seas, so avoid scheduling your departure the same day as an international flight. Tell your hotel you are on your honeymoon; small places often add a thoughtful touch.
